We made it to Machu Picchu!! I won't say it was a walk in the park, our legs now feel like jelly, but we managed to complete the inca trail in just 3 days.
Despite the rain and snow and thousands of huge, slippery steps we had an incredible time and feel like we earned the view over Machu Picchu as we stumbled through sun gate.
We had a great group who powered through the trail; the Swedish couple, Adam and Francia, our informative guide Frank and the incredible group of 5 porters who sped along the trail with ease and fed us like royalty.
Every meal was an occassion: pancakes, omelettes, porridge and hot cacao for breakfasts; a range of appetisers including fresh guacamole or stuffed tomatoes followed by freshly prepared flavoursome soups then mountains of rice, fish, vegetables and meat for lunch. For dinner, more scrumptious soup and piles of delicious foods finished of with dessert; on the last day they even presented us with a carefully decorated cake, cooked on a gas stove: incredible.
As if their ability to cook wasn't enough the porters were strong as ices and agile like gazelles. They bounded down the trail with 20-25kg piled high on their backs, making our 10kg packs feel somewhat insignificant. It did feel good however when we powered past the people who had hired extra porters so we're just carrying water and snacks.
The first day was beautiful with sun pounding down on us. We wound alongside the urumana river, snapping focus of the towering mountains, spiky cacti and inca ruins and terraces below.
We walked around 10km this day with an hour and a half stop for lunch in a quaint farm along the way. That night after dinner we went to bed early, preparing ourselves for what has been described as the killer day the next day.
On the second day we woke early, but the sun was not out, the clouds had rolled in and it began to rain, however this wouldn't stop us we had hiking to do! The first hour was only small ups and downs, although not easy by any means, however as the rain got heavier the next part of the began, the vertical hike. Uneven stone step after step rose in front of us, it never seemed to end. We rose 1.2km in height in only 2.5hrs (it was meant to take 4hrs). Both me and Hannah powered on with our huge backpacks, proudly passing others with their small day sacks, we were going slow and steady. As we gained altitude the rain turned to snow. We reached the top in our shirts and raincoat, with the wind howling around us and the snow swirling down, the achievement of reaching the top was an anticlimax!
We quickly began the steep scramble down, with our hands numb and our legs red raw. We made the hour an a half journey down to camp very wet and cold. Once at camp we warmed up with hot chocolate and popcorn, we then huddled in our tent, or clothes still wet and Libby's roll mat was soaked. We played cards and had dinner before an early night hoping for a sunnier day tomorrow.
The third day we woke up to hear the sound of rain, not a good sign! However at breakfast we talked as a group and decided to make it all the way to Machu Picchu that day, meaning we saw it from the sun gate without the morning mist and our photos over the place would have very little people as it would be afternoon. So we began the 20km hike, the first hour was another step staircase, but the top of this mountain was much more sheltered, almost like an oasis on top of the mountain, beautiful. As we continued down hill we came to a large inca town, which would have been for the wealthy as it had no farming terraces. The walk got much better as the rain lightened and the trail began to turn into the jungle. The views were incredible as we walked around the mountains, the trees and plants so colourful and varied, this was incredible!
We passed through a few more inca ruins before we reached our lunch spot. The rain had cleared, but our legs were jelly after the 6 hour walk. After lunch we had 2 more hours mostly down until we reached Machu Picchu, however there was one rock wall, towering 20m in our way. We scrambled up like spider monkeys with our huge rucksacks. We were then shortly at the sun gate, giving us the first glimpse of Machu Picchu, it was stunning! We continued down, getting the classic views over the city, however it was long until the rain began, so quickly we boarded the bus and headed down to the town we would stay in. Dinner was served by our porters in the restaurant, which was very cool, but strange. We then headed to our hostel where we fell swiftly to sleep.
The alarm buzzed at 4am dragging us into the dark morning ready for another uphill climb to Machu Picchu. We staggered out of bed on our peg legs and slowly followed frank by torch light to join the queue for the start of the climb.
At 5am the gates opened, our passports were checked and we were on our way.
In just under an hour we managed to stagger up what seemed like an endless pathway of steps to 400m above our starting point.
At the top we were greeted by an ever growing queue to enter Machu Picchu. Once through Frank took us on a tour of the ancient city. The history of the Ince people was fascinating and steeped in rituals and tradition. Much of the city had been designed to worship the sun, such as the east facing windows and temple of the sun. There were also frequent references to the condor, a sacred bird sent down from the cosmos.
Frank showed us an example of early earthquake proofing where the stones had been calved to interlock.
Once Frank had taken us on a tour of the ruins and explained what they mean we bid him farewell.
Wanting to make the most of our time we hobbled up to the inca bridge, another 40 minute walk, via plent of llamas.
As we walked to the inca bridge the clouds swirled down and the rain began to pour. Once we had seen the feat of engineering, a stone bridge tucked into the cliff face we decided to head back down.
The steps seemed even longer than before as we slowly stumbled our way back to the hostel. Finally, we made it.
Picked up our bags, ate our bodies' weight in nuts, wrote our diaries then made our way to the train station.
A nice surprise to finish off the trip.. We were in business class so served a tropical cocktail, more nuts, fruit and chocolate.
Finally arrived back in cusco around 6.30pm, dumped our bags and went straight next door for pizza.
We feel so privileged to have been able to walk the inca trail and experience the ancient city of Machu Picchu. The views and incredible architecture which has stood the test of time were well worth the aching legs and soggy nights.
Can't quite believe it's less than a week until we arrive home now, just cusco and Lima to go!!
