At a South American 7.35am the cheerful hostel doorbell rang and our Titicaca adventure began. We were dropped at the port along with around 20 others (mostly middle aged and French).
Our guide Henry welcomed us onboard and we slowly chugged out into the expanse of the highest navigable lake in the world (3810m asl). Named Titicaca due to its apparent resemblance to a 'great puma'.
Our first stop was the floating islands of Uros where families live on islands made entirely from reeds. The locals showed us how they use roots as a base and layer reeds on top to create a 2m thick raft, held in place with 10 anchors. We thought the cooking situation looked slightly risky as only a rock kept the fire from the flammable reeds.
After being shown their way of life (worlds away from the hectic westernised lifestyle) we were given the opportunity to take a ride on one of their reed boats. 4 of us sat high on the boat's platform and were entertained by a cheeky local boy while his parents rowed us to another little Island.
From here we boarded the motorised boat again and puttered the 3 hours to Amantani Island where we would be spending the night. We were welcomed by our host 'Madre', Hilda, who didn't speak a work of English making communication pretty tricky (we wished we'd spent a bit longer on duolingo before starting our travels).
Hilda led us to her picturesque house up on the hillside with views down to the lake.
We had an awkward wait in our new room whilst she prepared lunch. Finally she beckoned us into her kitchen and we were served a huge portion of quinoa soup followed by a range of potatoes, tomato and grilled halloumi; very traditional Peruvian food. We felt slightly odd as we ate at the table whilst she sat in the corner and watched us but it was nice none the less.
Once we had had our fill we were led down to a field to meet the rest of the tour and watch how the locals grind quinoa into flour and the intricate process of weaving scarves and blankets. It's incredible how much detail they achieve with just a wooden frame and bone.
From here our group slowly hiked the hour up to the top of the island to admire the view of the setting sun, lighting up the lake a warm shade of red.
On return to the island's main square we were again met by Hilda to show us to her place for dinner. Another awkward wait was followed by a very salty rice and vegetable soup and even saltier fried vegetables and rice. This left us gagging for water.
Party time! In the evening all of the tourists were dressed by their host parents and met in the school for traditional music and dancing. Hilda gave us beautifully embroider shirts, puffy skirts, colourful belts and long black shawls to wear.
The dancing was very energetic as we joined hands and bounced around the room; good fun for the first few songs but a little repetitive. Once we'd danced our socks off we made our way back to the house for a comfy nights sleep.
Next morning we were served quinoa pancakes and yet more coca tea in Hilda's little kitchen. The quinoa pancakes were really good, nothing like the European variety; somewhere between a sweet chewy flat bread and an American pancake.
We bid farewell to our host family, secretly slightly thankful to leave the awkward attempts at communication.
Next stop was Taquile island where we saw more of the traditional way of life, from dancing and festivities in the main square to weaving and wool making in a field near by.
For lunch we were taken to an idyllic spot on the hillside with amazing views down to lake Titicaca. Our entire group sat at a long table in the garden and were served quinoa soup followed by incredible, fresh fried trout with rice and chips (double carbs as usual).
Henry taught us more about the traditional dress before we clambered back onboard our little boat and snoozed through the 3 hour ride back to the mainland.
It was so interesting to see the way of life on Lake Titicaca's island, especially the floating Uros islands. We did feel that the whole experience was very much put on for the tourists and that we are now their main source of income but it was fascinating to see and experience none the less.
Back in Puno we checked into Huchuy Wasi then set out for an early evening meal, not wanting to walk the streets here in the dark.
We found a good looking place with 3 courses for £5 so decided to give it a go. Our punt paid off as we munched our way through scrummy, fresh food. Libby got her comfort from nachos, spag bol and English tea while Hannah found the freshness she needed in a mushroom omelette, alpaca steak with steamed veg and cinnamon tea. For dessert we shared chocolate cake and fruit salad, yum!
Now back in Huchuy Wasi getting everything ready for our bus ride to Cusco followed by our Amazon adventure :D
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